Sailing the high seas - ferry to Kyushu. And a steak restaurant with a cow statue has to be good
Trip Diary Day 18 - 15 April 2019 - Matsuyama (Shokoku) to Takachiho (Kyushu)
Check out Episode 14 of our Epic Family Road Trip Across Japan.
Drive to Yawatahama Ferry Terminal to catch the ferry to Usuki.
We were up early and left the hotel by 8.30. I know some people may think that is a late start but for us it is pretty early. I retrieved the car from vending machine car park and figured it was an one and half hour drive to Yawatahama to the ferry terminal. We had to be there by about 11 so we thought we had just enough time for breakfast at Three Fish Coffee. We parked in the next door car park where the car clamp locked our car securely in place.
Three Fish Coffee
We order two breakfast sets. The egg sandwich set, which is like a big fluffy omelette, and the toast set. We ordered an extra toast for Brandy. And a choc chip scone. 1840 yen ($23AUD). Yes it was as good as the day before. They make just about the perfect Japanese style cafe breakfast and great coffee. I definitely recommend Three Fish if you visit Matsuyama.
When we arrived in the car park I’d noticed that the machine only had a Japanese language option but I thought, how hard can it be? I’ve used these types of machines before. But this machine defeated me. I couldn’t figure out how to pay the parking machine and un-clamp the car. I went back into Three Fish and asked if they could do it for us. The woman who served us came out, pushed a few buttons, I inserted 300 yen and like magic the clamp released the car. Thank you Three Fish Coffee staff forestalling a panic attack.
A Haiku
One Fish Two Fish Three
Coffee and shokupan toast
No better breakfast
The Ferry to Kyushu
We arrived at the Yawatahama ferry terminal after a one hour and 20 minute drive and we were directed to join the queue for the ferry. We parked and went inside the terminal to pay. I’d pre-booked the ferry to get a discount for booking ahead, but you pay on arrival. It was still 14400 yen ($188AUD) though. Shit expensive but was the alternative? Swim? Anyway, a ferry ride would be fun. A 3 hour cruise. Nothing ever goes wrong on a 3 hour cruise. Right Skipper?
We bought some 3 coloured mochi on sticks from the souvenir kiosk and went back to the car to board. We had arrived at 11.10. Boarding was at 11.25. Departure was 11.45. We left the car in the huge car and truck bay and went upstairs and to settle in for the 2 and half hour crossing. We had second class tickets. Most of the second class area - and first class for that matter - was tatami mats. No seats. There was only a couple of chairs near a window with small tables near the kiosk, vending machines, and toilets.
We went above to the open top deck to look around to watch as the ferry left port. I was feeling seedy on this morning. I don’t know if I was nervous about getting sea sick or just nervous. I hate sea sickness. When we went to Antarctica in 2003 I threw up for almost the entire journey down. About a week. So, nope, not a fan of sea voyages even if this one was going to be a quick blurt across a narrow strait.
It was cold and windy up top so the kids and I went downstairs to chill. Michelle stayed up top for a while to take photos. The kids played on their computers. I just sat and think. The ferry follow a isthmus or peninsula for about an hour then chugged by some islands before sailing down another peninsula on Kyushu to Usuki. Brandy played a claw game to try and win a toy. Those machines are a rip off. It wasn’t surprising considering the machine was in an alcove with the poker machines.
We arrived at 14.10. Announcements were made over the loudspeakers. People rushed around. Either we’d hit an iceberg and were sinking or we arrived. Disembarkation was quick. No sooner had we sat in the car, we had to fire up the engine and drive down the ramp.
There is only one ferry company that does the Yawatahama to Usuki (or Yawatahama to Beppo) run - Uwajima-Unyu Ferries. Their website for all the information about their ferries, timetables, and to make reservations is here.
Goodbye Shikoku, Hello Kyushu
The number one thing to do on a new island was to find a 7-Eleven to get some cash and sandwiches. Fortunately you’re never far from 7-Eleven anywhere in Japan. I had egg and egg and ham sandwiches. I don’t know if I’ve expressed how much I love Japanese konbini sangers. Michelle found a Starbucks sugar free iced coffee. I had to make do with one with sugar. They’re not bad. The sugar free version is better. They’re both better than good ol’ Big M or Oak Iced Coffee back home. I know, heresy, I should hand in my passport. How un-Australian of me to slag off Oak and Big M. I still love meat pies though. I haven’t seen a meat pie in Japan yet. Brandy had a melt down because we wouldn’t buy a toy. But he got over it quick and for the next hour or so he and Georgia happily played - repeating what each other said. That never gets old. That never gets old. That never gets old. That never gets old. Only two and a bit hours from Usuki to Takachiho.
At the end of the tollway we stopped at a roadside stop, Kitakata Yotchimiroya Roadside Stop, a Michi-No-Eki, for toilet and to buy stuff. Like little oranges in a bag for 500 yen and some egg like cake mochi things. It was essentially a fruit and veggie shop that sold souvenirs and some supermarket items. The little oranges were delicious. They were smaller than average oranges. About the size of a mandarin. Michelle asked the young woman selling them what they were. Eventually she worked out what Michelle was asking and she said, “little oranges”. Yotchimiroya seemed quite remote but it still had a couple of electric car quick charging stations. The electric car support infrastructure in Japan is already quite extensive.
Takachiho
We only had 30 kays to go but it was going to take an hour due to the narrow windy road to Takachiho. Takachiho is quite a large small village. Supermarkets and everything. It has one long main street down a hill. Or up the hill if you’re coming from the other direction I suppose. Rope like decorations and banner were strung between poles along the street. It appeared we’d arrived in time for a local festival. We’d come to visit the most famous local attraction, Takachiho Gorge. But who knew what else we would discover. I really should do more research.
Takachiho B&B Ukigumo
We arrived at our new accommodation, Takachiho B&B Ukigumo, for our stay in Takachiho, at about 5pm and checked in. The owner asked us how old the kids were and then said we’d actually booked for 3 adults so he would give us a kid discount of 1000 yen per night. Total of 24400 yen ($315AUD) for the 2 nights instead of 26400 ($345AUD). Another reason to love Japan and her people. Where else would you get a discount with asking for it? Our upstairs room was large with a great view across the valley and the Gokase River. Great view? Stupendous view. It looked fabulous with the setting sun. We had a Japanese style tatami mat room with private bath. Three futons were laid our for us but this was one of those occasions where there were enough extra futons and blankets in the futon cupboard for Brandy too.
Nagomi Steak Restaurant
Nagomi restaurant is a yakiniku restaurant. Yakiniku literally means “grilled meat” but it has come to mean cooking bite sized morsels of meat over a charcoal grill. BBQ at your table. Nagomi was only a 9 minute walk towards the centre of town from our B&B so we decided to hoof it, so to speak. It is a slanderous lie that the only reason we walked was so I could have a beer or two.
Nagomi restaurant specialises in the local black beef - Takachiho beef. They have a couple of cow statues out the front of the restaurant so it must be good. Over the years we’ve discovered that a big cow out front of a beef restaurant is a sign that we will have some bloody good steak. The first time we realised this was at another yakiniku restaurant in Takayama almost 10 year ago.
We ordered the Highest Grade Takachiho Beef Set for 8400 JPY. So you don’t think we are just unrepentant carnivores we ordered some assorted veggies too. Washed down with a large Kirin Lager bottle for 500 JPY. The charcoal BBQ was perfect. The flames were just the right intensity so we seared our meat and veggies to perfection. We all had a go at turning the food. The kids loved cooking at the table. The condiments for the steak were little dishes of salt, wasabi, a green fruity spicy condiment, and special BBQ sauce. The beef was tender, succulent and so so fatty. It was delicious. Well worth dropping 10100 yen ($130AUD) for. For the record the first yakiniku place we went to in Takayama 10 years earlier cost 8000 JPY. Not a horrible inflation rate at all. And we fed a family of four this time.
As we were leaving one of the waitresses wanted to give Brandy a hug and, surprisingly, he did. Everywhere we go he gets kawaii (cute). I think it is his curly mop of hair. An old lady at the ferry terminal just wanted to touch his cheeks. We ran into her again on the ferry and she gushed all over him. Everybody does. Little monster.
A Haiku
Takachiho's best
Succulent tender wagyu
Charcoal flames beckon
We walked home via supermarket to get supplies. I love Japanese supermarkets. Konbini are great but some of the supermarkets are next level. Like any supermarket there is an endless variety of stuff but this is Japan so that stuff is wonderful. One supermarket we went to in Nikko back in 2015 had prepacked sushi meals. They were huge yet not expensive. Maybe 10 bucks. Michelle picked one up to takeaway and the guy behind the counter took it from her, scribbled out the price, and wrote the equivalent of about 5 bucks on it. That was the best supermarket sushi we’ve ever had.
So, yeah, we love Japanese supermarkets as much as konbini. This time we only bought the usual yoghurt, milk, creme caramel puddings… yeah, my name is Shane and I am addicted to creme caramel puddings. Did I mention I’d lost 4 kg on this trip so far?
Back at the B&B we laid out our futons. The kids relaxed on their computers for a while and were asleep by 10. The next day we planned to visit the main draw for Takachiho, Takachiho Gorge.
Futons and Tatami
B&B Ukigumo, Takachiho
Epic Family Road Trip Japan on Youtube
Check out Episode 14 of our Epic Family Road Trip Across Japan.
Many of the pictures on this page are by Michelle. Essentially the good ones. Michelle retains full copyright and they can not be reproduced without permission. For licensing and using the photos contact Michelle at Michelle Newnan Photography
