Kurokawa Onsen to Nagasaki
Trip Diary Day 21 - 19 April 2019
Kurokawa Onsen - Nagasaki
Check out Episode 17 of our Epic Family Road Trip Across Japan.
We were out of Forest Village by 10. Not a horribly late start by our standards. We only got 400 metres before first photo stop. Basically the entrance to Forest Village. There was a photogenic rustic old mill and water wheel on the corner in some scrubby bush.
Farewell volcano Mount Aso
Then it was one last view from the volcano lookout. The first rule of visiting a region with an active volcano is that even if it is in the opposite direction to which you’re going you should go and take one last gander before you leave. The volcano was still erupting. It seemed we were going to survive our visit to the Aso region.
Farewell Kurokawa Onsen
We went down to Kurokawa onsen for a last stroll around. We drove down some really skinny streets, some of the streets are barely wide enough to walk, and parked in a hotel car park because the TI car park was chockers. We walked around town taking photos and reminiscing simpler times of yore - yesterday. We had onsen eggs from the onsen egg hut across from the Fujiya Ryokan. They were hard boiled. The hot water here may be too hot for 65 degree eggs. I’ll stand by the statement I made back in Yudanaka Onsen that the onsen eggs there were the best we’ve had.
Back to car and got petrol. 4500 yen (AU$56). A young woman approached and asked if we spoke English and then asked for directions to the TI. There’s a bus stop next to the petrol service station and we’d seen a lot of tourists walking from there. About 400 metres I told her. Turns out it is closer to 600. Sorry young woman but at least I pointed her in the right direction. Drove to a cafe called Ciel to see if it was open. With a name like Ciel it had to be French influenced. We were hoping they had coffee there. It was up a hill up a long driveway. It didn’t look like it had coffee but they did have cakes and pastries. Tea and coffee but no espresso machine so we skipped it. I bought a pack of 4 round tiny chocolate biscuits because of the second rule for visiting a region - if they have biscuits, buy them. We drove down the valley past some impossibly picturesque countryside and onsen towns. Lots of onsen towns. More onsen towns than I possibly imagined. We turned on to Toll Way.
Yamada Road Side Stop
Our first stop was at Yamada road side stop for lunch at about two. I love how most of these road side stops have their own website. There was a pastry shop inside amongst all the souvenirs. We bought croissants, hot dogs on sticks and sandwiches. And red bean filled donuts. Tried to get a iced coffee from one shop but she wouldn’t do it with ice cream even though it was an option on another drink. That can be the frustrating thing about corporate or franchise type stores. They won’t depart from the menu at all. Oh well. I bought an Iced coffee from a machine. Basically it was a hot latte but poured over heaps of ice. Quite shit. But better than the Georgia coffee in a bottle I also bought. Surprisingly the vending machines didn’t have very good options either. But chicken karaage I bought in a bag and heated in a microwave were very good. As were the sandwiches.
Nagasaki - ROUTE Cafe & Petit Hostel
We continued on to Nagasaki. Stopped a kay or two from the hostel to raid the 7-eleven ATM and get a bunch of cash. Funnily enough I keep running out of cash. We drove up to ROUTE Cafe & Petit Hostel. It is across the road from the Memorial to the 26 Christian Martyrs. Way back in 1597 26 Christian missionaries, 20 Japanese and 6 foreigners, were executed here by Toyotomi Hideyoshi as a warning to the large local Christian population. The message from that is you don’t fuck with the Imperial Regent.
We pulled up up and young man, Taigan, came out and asked if I was Shane Nixon. He took us downstairs to the basement apartment. Nice and big. Kitchen and separate bedrooms. There was enough room for 6. Easily one of the biggest apartments we’ve stayed in in Japan. The shower and laundry were in one room. We had the hostel washing machine in our bathroom so we warned that the staff come in to use it occasionally. Our toilet was outside our room at the bottom of the stairs. No we didn’t just pee on the floor. It was an actual toilet. The reception and cafe were up the stairs on the next level. The next floor after that has the “cabins” - more hostel style accommodation than our room. The top level is the outside deck and verandah where we hung out our washing after we did a couple of loads. We had a great view out over Nagasaki from there.
There was no parking near the hotel so Taigan suggested we take the car and park it a couple of blocks away at a Times. Similar to what I had before. The car is locked in place until you pay. The price was capped at 1300 yen per day. Not too bad for the middle of a large city like Nagasaki. It wasn’t far from the station and the post office. Brandy kicked open his door when we arrive which banged a close fence which made us yell. He got upset and started screaming. An old man working near by came over to see what is wrong with Brandy and gave him a pack of chewy caramel lollies. Amazing the kindness from people here. By here I mean all of Japan but Nagasaki was looking promising too.
We walked a block or so to find the Yakitori place we’d bookmarked. We couldn’t make a reservation for tonight so we make a reservation for 7.30 the next evening. That was Saturday night’s dinner sorted.
Meganebashi Bridge
W continued on to the Nakashima river to see the old bridges including the Spectacle Bridge. The bridge and reflection of the bridge in the water combine to make it look like spectacles. I made a spectacle of myself in front of the bridge. There were ten 17th century stone bridges crossing the river but in the 1980s a flood destroyed six. They were rebuilt with the retrieved stones. One of the old bridges, Meganebashi, is Japan’s oldest stone arch bridges. It dates back to 1634.
Yossou
We strolled downtown to Yossou for dinner. There were no apparent English menus on display but they did have plastic menu items in the window outside. They always look so real. I really should buy a plastic bowl of ramen for a souvenir one day. Shoes off then upstairs. We had the choice of tables or tatami mats on the floor. I chose table and chairs because I’m not flexible and a bit of a cry baby. We ordered from a picture menu. Georgia had sushi. Brandy had his meal delivered on a Shinkansen plate. He also had a Kirin orange juice. We had tea, water, and a large bottle of Asahi. The specialty of the house is a savoury egg custard with seafood and other bits and pieces. We have it as as set with pork and sashimi and rice and other lovely bits and pieces. It was all excellent. All up 9035 JPY (AU$112).
It was about 15 minutes to walk home. After staying in small towns for the last few days it was nice to be able to go to a Lawson for the usual breakfast and snack supplies. We finished a load of washing and enjoyed the view from upstairs. We just chilled and relaxed. The hostel supplied a coffee making kit, including a manual coffee bean grinder, for making drip coffee so I was looking forward try that in the morning.
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Check out Episode 17 of our Epic Family Road Trip Across Japan.
Many of the pictures on this page are by Michelle. Essentially the good ones. Michelle retains full copyright and they can not be reproduced without permission. For licensing and using the photos contact Michelle at Michelle Newnan Photography
